As the rich aroma of barbecued pork fills the air along South Bridge Road, eager crowds gather outside a little shop called Kim Joo Guan. They’re here for one thing and one thing only – bak kwa, the sweet and savory grilled meat that’s an iconic Lunar New Year delicacy.

But what is the story behind this over 70-year-old brand that has Singaporeans flocking in droves every holiday season?

Why has Kim Joo Guan bak kwa become so renowned despite having just a single outlet?

And what do customers really think about this bak kwa that has been supplyng some of Singapore’s largest brands for decades?

I decided to find out. Armed with a healthy appetite and burning curiosity, I embarked on a journey tracing Kim Joo Guan’s legacy, interviewing its makers, and tasting the bak kwa that left customers with some controversial reviews.

Here is the untold tale behind one of Singapore’s most famous Chinese New Year traditions.

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Kim Joo Guan Bak Kwa Review: Background Overview

Our story begins in post-war Singapore. A man named Ong Twee Kim fled from political instability in China to carve out a better life here as an immigrant laborer. To provide for his family, Ong Twee Kim took on miscellaneous odd jobs, including working at a roadside bak kwa stall.

As a curious food lover, Ong Twee Kim paid close attention to how the aromatic pork slices were prepared – from the marinade recipe to the grilling technique. Soon, he began experimenting with his own bak kwa recipes during his free time.

When his employer suddenly fell sick one Chinese New Year, Ong Twee Kim was forced to man the stall himself. With no time to spare, he whipped up bak kwa using his secret homemade marinade. To his surprise, customers actually preferred his version over the original!

Bolstered by the glowing reception, Ong Twee Kim took over the stall when his employer retired. As demand grew, his wife and eventually their children all pitched in to the family business.

Over the decades, the modest street stall evolved into a proper store retailing Ong Twee Kim’s signature “Kim Joo Guan” bak kwa across Singapore. The recipe was passed down across four generations of Ongs, who zealously guarded its origins as a precious family heirloom.

Traditional Tastes, Modern Twist

Today, Kim Joo Guan is headed by Ong Twee Kim’s grandson Mr Ong Bon Seng. Although no longer overseeing daily operations due to his age, the elder Ong’s guiding principle of “only the best quality pork” continues to steer the business.

At Kim Joo Guan’s little retail shop along South Bridge Road, third-generation owner Lin Da Wei now holds the reins. To preserve his late grandfather’s legacy, Lin carries on using time-honored methods of making bak kwa.

“My grandfather was very particular about how the pork was handled,” he explains.

The hindquarter meat is always chilled, never frozen, to retain moisture and flavor. Each thick slice is then lovingly grilled over charcoal, achieving that smoky depth without artificial flavors.

Yet tradition alone cannot satisfy modern tastes. As Singaporeans become more health-conscious, Kim Joo Guan now offers lower-sodium options. Customers can also indulge their creative cravings through inventive flavors like wine bak kwa and premium Iberico pork bak kwa.

It’s a delicate balance perfecting nostalgic old-school charm while innovating for the younger crowd. But Kim Joo Guan bak kwa seems to have found the sweet spot – literally.

Inside the “Omakase” of Bak Kwa Shops

Beyond outstanding products, what really sets Kim Joo Guan apart in a crowded bak kwa market is the VIP treatment given to customers.

The moment you step into the minimally furnished shop, friendly staff immediately tend to you like guests at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Sample platters offering a taste of different bak kwa varieties are presented for your selection.

As you browse, attentive assistants stand ready with gloves and tongs, happy to recommend bestsellers like the chilli or mala bak kwa. Each purchase is then lovingly packed, wrapped in brown parchment paper and adorned with stickers.

Such five-star service doesn’t come cheap, however. Kim Joo Guan bak kwa is positioned as a premium product, with prices noticeably higher than commercial chains. A small 200g packet starts from S$17, while their signature 600g traditional bak kwa barrel sells for S$48 excluding GST.

Is the bak kwa worth the price then? I decided to be the judge.

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bak kwa Taste Test – Yay or Nay?

After sniffing my way through the displays, I settled on the house specialty Traditional Vacuum Packed Bak Kwa (S$48 for 600g, S$40 for 500g). As slices were placed into my cinder toffee-hued takeaway box, the anticipation was unbearable.

The first tentative bite instantly brought me back to childhood Lunar New Years. Sweet, salty, smoky flavors mingled harmoniously on my tongue. The pork fairly melted from the residual heat trapped inside the vacuumed pack, lubricating the grains of rice.

As I chewed slowly, savoring the moment, I noted how the meat was pleasantly fatty without being cloying. Each thick slice was also decently marbled while sporting a beautiful amber char.

So far, Kim Joo Guan was living up to expectations. At S$80 per kg, this bak kwa was definitely on the pricier scale, but the sublime enjoyment justified the premium. No wonder customers were willing to pay for this level of quality.

Other cuts I sampled were competent if less impressive. The Chili Bak Kwa delivered considerable spiciness, but sacrificed some moisture in the process. The crumbly yet oddly dry Premium Pork Belly would suit taste buds preferring pure pork essence.

Throughout the tasting, one thing bugged me. For all its sweet and savory charm, Kim Joo Guan’s bak kwa lacked a certain je ne sais quoi I couldn’t pinpoint. It tasted exactly like…regular bak kwa. Surely the producers could impart a touch more personality?

While licking sticky fingers, I pondered where the bak kwa could improve. Could the Lonely Planet treatment of being “perfectly pleasant (but) not life-changing” explain its relatively low internet presence despite decades of heritage?

Perhaps there were valuable insights hiding in customer reviews after all…

The Best and Worst of Kim Joo Guan – Reviews & Complaints

Scouring online opinions revealed Kim Joo Guan bak kwa draws mixed verdicts. Among the most enthusiastic fans is Daniel of DanielFoodDairy, who declares these “barbeque pork slices to be one of my favourites.”

Burpple reviews averaged a decent 3.7 out of 5 stars. Flavors were variously described as “sweet, salty, smoky” and “crispy, flavourful, caramelised sweetness.”

Not all impressions were rosy, however. Several Burpple users criticized the bak kwa for being “quite hard.” A lack of flavour and moisture was highlighted, noting the meat was “not nearly as good as you expect.”

The most serious complaints centered on Kim Joo Guan’s inventory and ordering issues. Because all produce is handmade in small batches, hot items often sell out quickly.

Multiple annoyed customers vented about fruitless multiple trips to the store, grumbling “Dear management, please stock up” and “Bak kwa sold out again?! frustrations abound when eager shoppers hungry for a Lunar New Year fix leave empty-handed.

These criticisms echo age-old oversights that have plagued Kim Joo Guan for years. A 2013 Hardwarezone thread shared similar grievances:

“What is the point of having a shop when there is no stock? Seems this issue has been going on for many many years but still no improvement.”

“I will think twice about buying from them next year. They should plan their inventory.”

With supply struggles stretching back over a decade, perhaps crafting artisanal bak kwa is trickier than meets the eye. When a now-defunct Kim Joo Guan branch at Paragon also folded due to manpower shortage issues, the problem appears ingrained instead of temporary glut.

Nonetheless, the company seems to have won over Singaporeans with sheer product merit – when available. As one pioneer generation fan on Makansutra noted:

“We always patronise Kim Joo Guan because of one thing – quality… Never mind if we have to Q longer or supplies run out faster, no one makes bak kwa like they do!”

Indeed, Kim Joo Guan bak kwa’s stellar product pedigree shows why they’ve remained a Lunar New Year staple brand for decades through the years. Behind the mixed customer sentiment lies deep affection for tradition coupled with nostalgia.